B-side reprise. A trip to Los Baez.
It has been a full month since our visit to Los Angeles, and though we’ve tried to scratch that itch many times, we still haven’t been able to satisfy our craving for tacos. Good little tacos like the ones we picked up at Loteria Grill in the old part of the Farmer’s Market at 3rd and Fairfax in Hollywood. Savory, meaty bites tucked into handmade three-bite tortillas, just slightly bigger than the palm of your hand. We had heard of a new place, Los Baez, a local chain recently expanded from Salem. We read that people have actually made the drive there to get a fix. We heard talk of handmade tortillas, which got our eyebrows raised and interest piqued. Optimistically, we made our way down to E. Burnside to dig in.
Los Baez is huge. It has so much space, it doesn’t even seem to know what to do with it all. Most of the bi-level room is taken up by the dining room, wood tables and chairs seemingly borrowed from a shut-down Shakey’s and spread pretty far apart from one another to the point it felt awkward. In that open space, we craved a little corner to slip into, so we opted for the bar section, a little gated area on the main floor.
We sat down and literally cracked open the menus. Turns out, it was their opening night. I don’t know exactly how we keep doing this. It seems unfair to write up a restaurant based on their first night opened, but noneifbysea made the astute observation that since they are a chain that’s been in operation locally for decades, really they should have any serious kinks worked out and that the food should be the same.
Our very, very genial server was eager to get us drinks. Nursing a cold, I asked if their juices were fresh squeezed. Turns out, they’re not entirely up and running, but when they are yes, they will have fresh juices. Those fresh-squeezed juices will be a great compliment to their full bar- clearly positioned as a draw in this place.
A request for iced tea got the same response. I gave into a diet soda. Noneifbysea opted for a margarita, blended, with ice. Our eager, cheerful server asked if he wanted to get a 40 oz, enough for two. We don’t tend to drink cocktails that require special extra-long straws, and declined.
The menu is expansive. And traditional. A whole lot of what you’d expect to find at any refried beans and rice Mexican restaurant. Burritos, quesadillas, tacos, enchiladas. All the usual suspects were lined up in all the traditional ways, and the menu reads like a remedial guide to Mexican food, politely detailing carne asada, the contents of guacamole and offering the gringo’s guide to flan. Though we were feeling taco-ish, save for a fish taco or two, all of Los Baez tacos are fried. Instead, we opted for the fajitas, where we could see what they were working with in terms of both meat and tortillas. We went off-menu and took our waiter’s suggestion of the sweet carnitas.
It took a very, very long time to get our food. And the place wasn’t too crowded that night. In fact, it seemed most everyone there were regulars and family friends who drove up for opening night. And the more we watched, the more we learned. Someone else did order the 40 oz drink. And it was just for himself. And he was met with applause when it was brought to him. An impromptu drinking contest began at the bar. More applause. A K-Fed doppleganger furiously text-messeged. We saw a cocktail waitress with a red-bull apron doubling as a mini-skirt. More “whoooooo!ing.” We exchanged looks.
Though we ordered the plate for two, we got a sizzling platter for one, which was fine, since the more we ate, the less we wanted to. The tortillas were pretty good. A little thick, a little thin. Clearly these guys were hand-made. Sadly, these were the highlight. The carnitas themselves were pretty terrible. The sweetness that had been talked up was just too much. More than anything we tasted sugar, not juice or pork. It was sugar-meat wrapped up in a tortilla with sub-par fixins. The guacamole was bland, the rice was gummy, the beans boring and the lettuce sad and limp. Always on the side of the underdog, I asked NIBS, “But really, I don’t know. I want to give them another chance. Portland Mexican has not a lot going for it. There aren’t a lot of mid-level places. You’ve got either high-brow, like D.F. or a few out-of-the-way taco carts that are hard to find after dark. Who’s doing this, but better?”
“Applebee’s.” He said.
Sometimes, the guy has a point.
Our happy waiter came by and asked if we wanted dessert. NIBS’ was encouraged earlier by the listing of the sopapilla- a perfectly great concoction of fried dough, heavily dusted with cinnamon and laden with honey. After our carnitas disappointment, he was skeptical, but I put him up to at least ordering it. I was sure they wouldn’t actually have them ready. And they did. Kind of. Instead of a puffy dough, we got a fried tortilla, doused in honey and encircled by whipped cream and (wait for it) two marachino cherries. No cinnamon at all. Despite being cloying and soggy, there was something spicy in there! It wasn’t supposed to be there. It was a disaster.
As we waited (and waited, and waited) for the plates to be cleared, drinks to be refilled, we took in more of the place. A few more guys with baseball hats took a place at the bar, and the bartender encouraged the “wooo!ing” to continue by pouring more and more shots. We realized, this wasn’t the Mexican place we were looking for. This is a place that’s clearly drinks first, friendly service second, and food a distant third. A place where you might meet the guys to watch the game and get some drinks, and maybe order a bean and cheese burrito to soak it all up. Which, really, simply isn’t our kind of place.
Food: from the little of the menu we surveyed, not too good. Probably not compelling enough to bring us back.
Drinks: solid margarita, and the diet soda was excellent. Full bar, unmemorable wine and beer.
Atmosphere: "wooooooooo!"
Tally: NIBS is going down for this one. Adding insult to gastrointestinal injury.
Los Baez is huge. It has so much space, it doesn’t even seem to know what to do with it all. Most of the bi-level room is taken up by the dining room, wood tables and chairs seemingly borrowed from a shut-down Shakey’s and spread pretty far apart from one another to the point it felt awkward. In that open space, we craved a little corner to slip into, so we opted for the bar section, a little gated area on the main floor.
We sat down and literally cracked open the menus. Turns out, it was their opening night. I don’t know exactly how we keep doing this. It seems unfair to write up a restaurant based on their first night opened, but noneifbysea made the astute observation that since they are a chain that’s been in operation locally for decades, really they should have any serious kinks worked out and that the food should be the same.
Our very, very genial server was eager to get us drinks. Nursing a cold, I asked if their juices were fresh squeezed. Turns out, they’re not entirely up and running, but when they are yes, they will have fresh juices. Those fresh-squeezed juices will be a great compliment to their full bar- clearly positioned as a draw in this place.
A request for iced tea got the same response. I gave into a diet soda. Noneifbysea opted for a margarita, blended, with ice. Our eager, cheerful server asked if he wanted to get a 40 oz, enough for two. We don’t tend to drink cocktails that require special extra-long straws, and declined.
The menu is expansive. And traditional. A whole lot of what you’d expect to find at any refried beans and rice Mexican restaurant. Burritos, quesadillas, tacos, enchiladas. All the usual suspects were lined up in all the traditional ways, and the menu reads like a remedial guide to Mexican food, politely detailing carne asada, the contents of guacamole and offering the gringo’s guide to flan. Though we were feeling taco-ish, save for a fish taco or two, all of Los Baez tacos are fried. Instead, we opted for the fajitas, where we could see what they were working with in terms of both meat and tortillas. We went off-menu and took our waiter’s suggestion of the sweet carnitas.
It took a very, very long time to get our food. And the place wasn’t too crowded that night. In fact, it seemed most everyone there were regulars and family friends who drove up for opening night. And the more we watched, the more we learned. Someone else did order the 40 oz drink. And it was just for himself. And he was met with applause when it was brought to him. An impromptu drinking contest began at the bar. More applause. A K-Fed doppleganger furiously text-messeged. We saw a cocktail waitress with a red-bull apron doubling as a mini-skirt. More “whoooooo!ing.” We exchanged looks.
Though we ordered the plate for two, we got a sizzling platter for one, which was fine, since the more we ate, the less we wanted to. The tortillas were pretty good. A little thick, a little thin. Clearly these guys were hand-made. Sadly, these were the highlight. The carnitas themselves were pretty terrible. The sweetness that had been talked up was just too much. More than anything we tasted sugar, not juice or pork. It was sugar-meat wrapped up in a tortilla with sub-par fixins. The guacamole was bland, the rice was gummy, the beans boring and the lettuce sad and limp. Always on the side of the underdog, I asked NIBS, “But really, I don’t know. I want to give them another chance. Portland Mexican has not a lot going for it. There aren’t a lot of mid-level places. You’ve got either high-brow, like D.F. or a few out-of-the-way taco carts that are hard to find after dark. Who’s doing this, but better?”
“Applebee’s.” He said.
Sometimes, the guy has a point.
Our happy waiter came by and asked if we wanted dessert. NIBS’ was encouraged earlier by the listing of the sopapilla- a perfectly great concoction of fried dough, heavily dusted with cinnamon and laden with honey. After our carnitas disappointment, he was skeptical, but I put him up to at least ordering it. I was sure they wouldn’t actually have them ready. And they did. Kind of. Instead of a puffy dough, we got a fried tortilla, doused in honey and encircled by whipped cream and (wait for it) two marachino cherries. No cinnamon at all. Despite being cloying and soggy, there was something spicy in there! It wasn’t supposed to be there. It was a disaster.
As we waited (and waited, and waited) for the plates to be cleared, drinks to be refilled, we took in more of the place. A few more guys with baseball hats took a place at the bar, and the bartender encouraged the “wooo!ing” to continue by pouring more and more shots. We realized, this wasn’t the Mexican place we were looking for. This is a place that’s clearly drinks first, friendly service second, and food a distant third. A place where you might meet the guys to watch the game and get some drinks, and maybe order a bean and cheese burrito to soak it all up. Which, really, simply isn’t our kind of place.
Food: from the little of the menu we surveyed, not too good. Probably not compelling enough to bring us back.
Drinks: solid margarita, and the diet soda was excellent. Full bar, unmemorable wine and beer.
Atmosphere: "wooooooooo!"
Tally: NIBS is going down for this one. Adding insult to gastrointestinal injury.
posted by lavendersoda at 5:02 PM
6 Comments:
LS- You forgot to mention the thirst induicing over-salted tortilla chips. These puppies sprkled as the light hit the NaCl crystals. And the salsa... the menu claimed fresh (and if I recall, something like 'made with love') but tasted like wither underripe tomoatoes, or more likely, salsa from a can or jar. And, it was all heat, no flavor; in my mind one of the true culinary no-nos.
Great review!
I am lead evening cook and kitchen manager at Los Baez, I am very aware of some of our early shortcomings, I just want to clear some things up for folks that may read this review and have second thoughts, I probably would.
I would also before I continue, like to inform that yes this is a chain of restaurants, but it is not by any means a franchise or large corporate chain. We are rooted in Salem Or. And still after thirty three years, family owned and operated. I am the son-in-law of Chef Alberto Baez who is an owner and the director of operations here in Portland. Me my wife, Faviola and cousin-in-laws make up most of the staff, we try to be cordial and friendly that is no mistake.
Yes we do serve fresh squeezed fruit drinks in a full bar that I built and finished with my own hands. I make tortillas everyday fresh, so I know they are fresh, and when our tortilla machine in the front dining area is in service; usually on the weekends, I dare to find a better flavor than hot off the comal. Our salsa is fresh as well, it does not come from a can, it is simple tomato, and jalepeno salsa it is usually mild but sometimes you'll hit a hot streak. If you like Pico De Gallo (con onion y cilantro) we have that, if you want it hotter we can do that milder you got it, there are a lot of things that we do for customers, as well as full customized plates and combonations, a request is usually all it takes.
If there is something you like that is not on the menu we can make changes and accomidations. If there is a particular request you have or a comment or question you have about our food, I personally invite you to come over to the kitchen and let me know.
We offer low carb options, and vegetarian options for those who don't eat meat, We're currently developing vegetarian versions of our meat based gravy's and sauces to better accomodate our vegetarian customers.
Yes, there is a festive vibe when you arrive, but by no means are children not welcome. We are historically a family restaurant. We are putting together accomodations for the youngsters, possibly a play area, of course crayons, placemats, and kiddy menues.
When we got to Portland we had an understanding that our audience would be of a more distinguished taste, but over thirty some years, we have had to adjust our homestyle flavors to an angloed down version for a typically meatloaf and potatoes venue this is Oregon, or at least last time I checked, loggerville USA.
We recognize that more people today have traveled and are more receptive to hotter and spicier foods and have a better appreciation for what is authentic, we are adjusting, and doing alot of things to bring those authentic flavors back to light, we are on the march to improve and it's a daily challenge, but I personally know what goes into everything we do, and I know we'll do just fine.
When Mouth and None If By Sea came to visit they slipped in anonymously, on a day we were still training our cooks, for a grand opening that we only advertised for friends and family. The next three weeks we were open on a soft run basis for training purposes. Our signs were'nt even up yet. I feel this review was a bit premature.
We had an alternate opening for our friends at El Latino newspaper, and Don Pancho. Since, we have had mostly positive feedback and little in the way of dissatisfaction.
We are still planning for a full blown celebration of our arrival in Portland, but clearly we as a business know we need to be 100% to shine for the people and honestly some fairer weather would be a nice touch.
As we always have we welcome, and are quite happy to give our friendly service to all who come in from our neighborhood and beyond, our home is yours.
The most important thing to us in these early stages is feedback, this blog was very important to us. And I would continue to invite these folks back to try us out again and again, I feel they would find that we have improved even since this was posted.
I try to remember a quote from my business classes, "All the market research available, cannot prepare you for the real world" true.
But a quote from my father-in-law rings truest, "four years of school can't hold a match to thirty years of experience".
Trust that we have an understanding of what we are up against in a new market, and we came prepared to adapt and adjust.
Though there are, and have been other restaurants with the Los Baez name, please keep in mind this is still a new venture for Los Baez Inc. and everyday we learn from our customers what they want, and what we can do to make what we do better.
By no means am I attempting to defend our name, or make apologies, I just want to set a few things straight and extend my gratitude for the ones who are actually paying attention.
Thanks for the feedback positive or negative it only can raise the bar for improvement. I am very aware you cannot satisfy every person that comes through the door, it might be we were'nt what they had in mind in the first place.
Thanks for visiting us, and please come again. My name is Che' I'm the tall guy in the kitchen with a braid, anonimity is not our style. I appreciate your stopping in.
Che f-
Thank you for your comment. It's clear you have a lot of love and passion for your venture, and to be honest, it flatters our humble blog that you'd think our review might sway anyone one way or another. We really didn't think anyone was reading!
Here's how we work- we're not like real food reviewers. We go to a place once, and then write up our opinions. Most real food reviewers hit a place a number of times over a period of a few months. Fair, yes, but not how most people eat. We go, we eat, we write. But, like anyone who writes about food, we're not about to reveal ourselves when we walk in the door!
And to be fair, we absolutly noted that it was the first night, but there were things there that didn't appeal to us, that we couldn't imagine would change (the crowd you're courting, the "angloed-down" menu, etc.).
But fine, to be even fairer, we'll be back soon. And we'll let you know, probably from the comfort of our own blog, how it went.
I hope you did go back, and if you haven't yet, I recommend the chili rellanos. I've been all up and down the Pacific coast of North America, and these are still my favorites.
My husband and I are in Amsterdam for the winter, but I'm flying to Portland for the holidays, and a trip to Los Baez is one of the things I'm most looking forward to. My in-laws live near Salem, so if I'm lucky, I'll get to go to both the one in Portland and the one (original) in Salem.
What started out as a proud family business by the first generation has turned into a piggy bank for the spoiled rotten second generation of the Baez family. The "kids" who run the one on East Burnside are druggies, womanizers, and yes, there is even a serial rapist who was arrested in the kitchen after 9 years on the lam thanks to Los Baez Restaurant money. Maybe that's why they can't afford to pay back the $400,000 loan they took out from an in-law. They need the money to pay attorney fees and private investigators and to intimidate witnesses and victims alike. Alberto Zendejas Baez Jr. is a 5 time convicted(well, he plead guilty)rapist and pedophile. He is serving another light sentence, only 3 years, for carving up a little 14 yr. old girl after keeping her hostage for 3 days in a Baez family house. Do you think they don't know about their sons "problems"? Oh yes, and when released from prison in a year he will be back to work in the Los Baez kitchen, and of course back to raping teenage girls after getting them drunk in the bar at his family's restaurant.
Post a Comment
<< Home